What Is a Channel Setting in Jewelry?

In jewelry, a setting holds the stone that becomes a focal point of a jewelry item. There are plenty of different types of settings. The cut and dimensions of the gemstone as well as the size of the jewel frequently determine the kind of setting the artisan uses. Some collectors actually specialize in purchasing pieces that only use one type of setting.

The channel setting is unique in that it suspends gemstones between two pieces of base metal. If a ring is made of platinum, the channel is created by two strips of platinum. For a gold ring, the lines are made of gold. Imagine a letter “c” that is placed to resemble a letter “u.” It features a slightly larger bottom curvature and narrowing sides. In a channel setting, this design keeps the gemstones in place and prevents them from slipping out of the jewel.

Further securing multiple stones are bearings cut into the wall of the channel. They help keep several stones in place. Once the artisan places the stones in their desired locations and marks the spots, the professional crimps or hammers the tops of the channel to tighten just a bit more. Usually, the jewelry maker will then file the tops at a 30 degree angle to secure the stones they will contain just a little better.

Of course, there is more than one way to incorporate a channel setting into a piece of jewelry. In some cases, the channel may be placed inside the gem while at other times it may actually protrude as part of the design. A channel may work in harmony with a design pattern or act as a visual counterpoint by going against harmonic lines.

Jewelers appreciate this setting design as a vehicle for the addition of numerous small sapphires, rubies and diamonds. This gives the artisan quite a bit of opportunity to play with colors and stone varieties. Since smaller stones are easier on the pocket book, channel settings frequently make jewelry pieces just a little bit more affordable.

To make certain that the setting is secure, the jeweler will have to ensure that the gemstones are cut with the channel size in mind. Moreover, the bearings cut into the channel walls must be precise and keep varying stone sizes in mind. Artisans occasionally number the stones they intend to use in multi-gem designs to prevent mix-ups when working with a large number of inserts.

Although it is possible to secure a somewhat loose stone by over-crimping the top of the channel, it is usually not a good option. Trauma to the jewel can easily bend the channel, which then leads to a loss of the gems.

Getting a channel setting repaired is easy. If you own a piece of jewelry you can no longer wear because you fear losing the gems out of a channel, visit a jeweler. The professional will examine the item and verify the piece or pieces that need to be rebuilt. Occasionally, it is the top of the channel that needs to be repaired. Older pieces, or those that have experienced a lot of wear, will benefit from a repair of the channel’s sides as well.

Peter Suchy Jewelers is located at 1137 High Ridge Road in Stamford Connecticut and we hope you’ll stop by our showroom where we carry many pieces of jewelry with channel settings.

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