The septuagenarian Elsa Peretti just recently announced that her relationship with Tiffany & Co. will continue for another two decades. Speculators assumed that the celebrated artisan would retire and take the rights to her designs with her. Tiffany & Co. went to get length to avert this near-fatal blow to their inventory of collections. What makes this jewelry designer so desirable that the powerhouse would pay a large sum to be the sole licensee of her creations?
Peretti first made the news in the 1970s. Already with Tiffany, her designs were so beloved that even Andy Warhol was surprised by the demand her baubles had generated. Onlookers noticed that her jewelry was not spectacular in an ostentatious way but rather drew in the customer with attractive shapes and striking simplicity. Before bringing her talent to Tiffany, she honed her craft with Halston and Sant’Angelo. Keeping a firm finger on the pulse of a generation, she created pieces that were earthy yet also in keeping with the disco movement.
By 1974, her Tiffany collection had become world-famous and was considered de rigueur for the young and famous. Stars of disco and the movies would clamor to wear her jewels. Declaring her unwillingness to design status symbols, she endeared herself to the jewelry-buying public by actively courting the average jewelry buyer with her high-end but still frequently affordable designs.
Outdoing herself once again in 1977, the jewelry designer introduced the Peretti diamond cut. Over the decades, the artisan continued to deliver chic fashion accessories that called for highest-quality diamonds and gems. Nevertheless, she never lost sight of her dedication to simple lines and understated elegance.
Abhorring the overdone nature of jewelry ensembles, Peretti is now famous for her simple creations that feature bean shapes, shells and hearts. Teardrops are one of the designs for which she is famous around the world. In an interview with Time, the legendary artisan revealed that the pieces she designed were something she would wear herself. In fact, she has modeled plenty of her own pieces while out on the town.
Reminiscing about her rise to stellar fame, she recalls the advice she received from Halston and others. Keeping her jewelry affordable for the working woman was difficult, but Halston reminded her to simply make pieces in different sizes that would then translate into more affordable choices as well as exclusive pieces that would appeal to the luxury buyer.
Of course, the designer also takes the time to reminisce about her work ethic. Exceedingly disciplined and in tune with her creativity, she does admit that designing great jewelry cannot be done on demand. Considering it a process of flow, she takes inspiration when she can get it. One thing that has always helped her is to envision not just the jewelry wearer but also a space in which items would be worn or used.
At Peter Suchy Jewelers, we carry many Elsa Peretti pieces so we invite you to stop by our showroom located at 1137 High Ridge Road in Stamford Connecticut. Or, browse some of Elsa’s designs in our eBay store.
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